The lightweight REVERSO is a multi-functional belay/rappel device designed for rock climbing, multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering. The braking effect already starts at an angle between 10 and 45 degrees. The Petzl Reverso is a popular go-to belay device. Hannes 20 Jun 2012 In reply to CurlyStevo: I prefer the guide alasdair19 22 Jun 2012 Oh, and they come in different colors! Related: The Delicate Dance of Multi-Pitch Passing Guide mode belay. Due to the blocking support, all main automatic belay devices can be secured by body dynamics only. In the section Operation Rope dispensing, the focus is on how quickly and, above all, how easily rope can be dispensed. Not a big enough difference that I'd recommend one over the other. Disclosure: Links marked with * are Affiliate Links. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. While semi-automatic machines lock independently of the braking hand, the Autotube requires the correct positioning of the braking hand. Black Diamond ATC - Alpine Guide. If, for example, you want to let go of a climbing partner, the braking effect is increased thanks to the braking aid available. Then these articles could help you: Attention: You have to take care of your safety when climbing! For most folks, this amount isn't a big deal, but for such a lightweight item, it's not an insignificant difference. For sheer versatility, whether you are alpine or ice climbing, heading up El Cap, sport or trad climbing or even TR-ing in the gym, ATC devices are impossible to beat. The position of the braking hand always affects the braking effect. The auto locking feature when belaying your second directly off the anchor has another nifty capability that many folks are not aware of: rope ascender. The ATC Guide has deeper, longer, and wider-ridged outlets—the V-shaped part of the channel where the brake end of the rope exits the device. This page describes the first of a many of these belay devices, so called Reverso 1. Top 6 Best Rock Climbing Shoes for Beginners, Black Diamond ATC Guide vs. Petzl Reverso 4 - Comparison, Belaying heavy climbers: technique + special equipment, alpine climbing, multi-rope length climbing, bigwall climbing, alpine climbing, multi-rope climbing, sport climbing, Not the lightest tuber on the market, but also not the heaviest, Requires additionally up to 3 HMS carabiners, Dumping in the post-run mode requires know-how and concentration, Weight: 80 g (manufacturer’s specification), Cable thicknesses: single 8.9 – 11 mm, half and twin 8.1 – 11 mm, Material: hot forged and anodized 7075-T6 aluminum, Suitable for half ropes with a minimum diameter of 8 mm, Suitable for twin ropes with diameter minimum 7,5 mm, Suitable for single ropes with a minimum diameter of 8.9 mm, Weight: 59 g (manufacturer’s specification). Later was added Reverso 2, which is Reverso 1 with some modifications, then followed a significantly different Reverso 3 and after that lightweight Reverso 4. I have always loved the outdoors and I go hiking and rock climbing every chance I get. Reverso is versatile belay device made by French company Petzl. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases if you decide to make a purchase through these links – at no cost for you! Sure, you know your plaquette-style belay device (such as a DMM Pivot, Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso) works great when you’re belaying your second direct from … It locks up almost as well as a grigri, but costs 1/3 the price and is 1/4 the weight. I use it exclusively when climbing for fun or when guiding. BD ATC Guide vs Petzl Reverso. Only for sport climbing this device is not suitable. 2 colors available. I have to … Hi, my name is Martin. In the event of a fall, Autotubers create very strong friction to block the rope. the atc guide is much easier. The home of Climbing on reddit. Just figured I'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before I decided which one to get. Both guides can belay two seconds. The ATC Guide* of the manufacturer Black Diamond behaves similarly. [1] It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. The single connection point is easier to use and more stable than the B-52, and the thick aluminum lasts longer than the thin material of the Reverso. And yes we are scared of falling. "it is more difficult to pay out slack on a Gri-Gri than on an ATC" "Using a Gri-gri to bring up a second on a traditional anchor is however less favorable than other belay devices such as the ATC guide or Reverso" Boristeph 08:57, 23 March 2011 (UTC) At only 59g, the Petzl Reverso 4 belay device is 25% lighter than the previous version yet offers the same versatility for belaying and rappelling. With a Tuber, an angle of 90 degrees between the guide rope and the brake rope is necessary to achieve a braking effect. What Gear do I Need to Start? As a further criterion, existing safety reserves play an important role. However, if you are looking for a multifunctional device for all vertical activities, the Reverso 4 from Petzl is a must. Black Diamond ATC Guide vs. Petzl Reverso 4 – Comparison. The brake teeth on the ATC-XP differentiate it from the ATC. How well are karabiners and rope compatible with each other? How easy is it to control and dose the release speed? The device is made with stainless steel rather than aluminum, and, according to Edelrid, will last ten years with occasional use and two years with extreme use with dirty ropes. Here the rope runs between the device and the karabiner. The lightweight REVERSO is a multi-functional belay/rappel device designed for rock climbing, multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering. Because the device makes a good impression when it is secured. Sure, you know your plaquette-style belay device (such as a DMM Pivot, Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso) works great when you’re belaying your second direct from … Why would you say that? Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. Device dynamic securing is not possible with them. The blocking mechanism in semi-automatic machines is generated by clamping the rope inside the machine. The Petzl Reverso is a tubular-style belay device that can be used in “guide mode” to belay a second from above. Both the atc guide and reverso provide autolocking functionality while bringing up a second, plus they can easily rap two ropes for descent. This makes it less useful for climbers doing more than just basic cragging, however if you don’t want to break the bank, it is an option worth exp, The DMM Pivot is another great option for trad climbers. Whether it’s climbing, belaying a descendant or abseiling at the top of a route, the Reverso 4 convinces with all the facets that climbing has to offer. This is due to the V-shaped braking grooves with their asymmetrical lateral notches. Especially for beginners, the ATC Guide offers a perfect and well-balanced price/performance ratio. Both are great atc's from good companies . Seconded. As a dynamic belay device, the Tube is ideal for climbing in alpine terrain as well as on multi-pitch routes. It proves a good handling and can convince with robustness. The situation is different with the Autotube. However, the handling and the general durability are slightly better with the Black Diamond ATC Guide*. Black diamond camalot x4 offset which is 25% lighter than the reverso 3. the petzl reverso 4 has v-shaped friction definitely not bomber like the old atc belay device friction test black diamond atc guide 8.6 dmm v-twin belay device 8.5 petzl reverso 3 8.5 dmm bug 8.2 black diamond atc вђ¦ Rock Climbing Equipment List. BLack DIAMOND ATC Guide belay device Auto locking plaquette-style belay devices (such as the Black Diamond ATC Guide, and Petzl Reverso) have become pretty much standard gear, for good reason. On the flip side of this - the Reverso can't handle larger ropes. The current Reverso looks more like an ATC belay device, but with the same functionality." level 1. This means that holding the fall is less dependent on your own strength. The biner hole is parallel to the device on the reverso and perpendicular with the guide. On the flip side of this - the Reverso can't handle larger ropes. For this reason the ATC Guide by Black Diamond is not suitable for sport climbing. Autotubers, therefore, offer a significantly higher safety reserve than is the case with classic tubers. particularly in guide mode. Before you climb, you should make sure that you have been properly instructed by an expert and that you follow all safety precautions. Other than the name brand, is there any advantage to one over the other? Petzl Reverso, Verso, Grigri A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying . Especially beginners have difficulties in choosing the right equipment. On the flip side of this - the Reverso can't handle larger ropes. most people rarely use them for multi-pitch climbs anyway. Exactly here a small innovation shows up. ATC guide is more durable. The price/performance ratio of the Reverso 4 is well balanced. It's easy to understand why, they're both afforable, smooth, and reliable. Which is the better belay device? But if you are, then it doesn't really matter which one you get. Still undecided? Which is the better belay device? The ATC-Guide is my preferred device when using single ropes (i.e. We compare the Black Diamond ATC Guide* with the Reverso 4* from Petzl. Hannes 20 Jun 2012 In reply to CurlyStevo: I prefer the guide alasdair19 22 Jun 2012 A slightly fancier version of the tubular belay device has an extra loop of metal on the back, which allows it to function in “guide mode.” This enables you to belay a second from above with a greater degree of security. Either will work if you anticipate doing lots of multipitch with one second. Links marked with * are affiliate links. The ATC Guide weighs 0.6 ounces more than its closest competitor, the Petzl Reverso (2.8 oz vs. 2.2 oz). They are almost identical in design, save for the orientation of the guide hole (the Reverso’s is … The difference between Autotuber and semi-automatic is on the one hand the braking hand position. Step By Step Guide Using An Aperture-style Self-braking Belay Device (E.g. A long service life and functionality are convincing. With both designs, you run the rope through the belay device and secure both the device and the rope through a locking carabiner (see photo). They don't see as much use on big walls. Here is an overview table of the most important features: A good belay device convinces by its blocking support. Before we go into the details here is the summary: Overall, the ATC Guide*is better suited for thicker ropes and beginners than the Reverso 4*. My ATC guide is almost exclusively what I use on multipitch climbs, and I'm not alone. GriGri cannot belay two seconds, reverso and guide can... To be honest, buy whatever's cheaper. I'm a Petzl chick mostly, but don't want to be discriminatory. Since the device does not block automatically, i.e. While some devices block very well in hard and jerky falls, they show clear weaknesses in soft falls. Poniżej znajdziesz kilka obrazków zaczerpniętych z dokumentacji firmy Petzl pokazującej właściwe … The specific design of the rope channels facilitates smooth rope glide and reduces wear. If you're not doing multi pitch or top belaying I wouldn't buy one. Newer options that are gaining solid following’s are the DMM Pivot which makes direct lowered off the anchor while in “guide mode” easier and the Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide that is optimized for working with skinny twin ropes. Size-wise the ATC Guide is also a bit larger. The ATC Guide has three ridges in the V-shaped outlet while the Pivot has two and a half, and the Reverso has two. We also examine in detail how the braking hand principle affects your own safety in case of injury. The Black Diamond ATC Guide (left) is slightly larger and heavier than its closest competitor, the Petzl Reverso (right). With the Autotube, the rope runs directly over the karabiner and accordingly leads to wear and tear. This makes it less useful for climbers doing more than just basic cragging, however if you don’t want to break the bank, it is an option worth exp, The DMM Pivot is another great option for trad climbers. The market is large and the offer is even larger. If you want two seconds, get a GiGi. The ATC Guide has a longer service life and is very robustly built – but it cannot be used for sport climbing because of the lack of brake support. Friend of mine tried to rappel on thick rope (11mm?) Cookies help us deliver our Services. However, dispensing rope and hauling in rope are easy and without blockage. You can’t beat the classic ATC for reliable belaying, and the Black Diamond ATC Guide belay device improves on the ideal design. Its ergonomic construction completes the belay device. The focus is on jerky, hard and soft, slow falls. As an important safety feature, it is important to know how well the device blocks in the event of a fall. If you are looking for a classic tube without autotube function, the ATC Guide from Black Diamond is the best choice. For this reason, the Reverso 4 can also be used to secure one or even two subsequent climbers. For years the Petzl Reverso 4 and Black Diamond ATC Guide have been two of the most popular belay devices among American multi-pitch climbers. We compare the ATC Guide* of the manufacturer Black Diamond with the Reverso 4* of the manufacturer Petzl. Disclosure: This website is the property of Martin Lütkemeyer and is operated by Martin Lütkemeyer. The abseiling and belay device convinces with various and problem-free applications on the rope. The guide doesnt wear to a sharp edge as fast, Its also better on ropes that are a bit thicker, Unless u need the reverso weight savings, get the guide for the durability. In the semi-automatic machine, the rope only runs through the device. ATC Guide Or Reverso) Tie the end of the rope onto your harness’s belay loop with a Figure 8 Follow Through Knot. The model ATC Guide is suitable for alpine climbing, multi-rope length climbing, bigwall climbing and is therefore considered a real all-rounder for beginners. The ATC Guide has a longer service life and is very robustly built – but it cannot be used for sport climbing because of the lack of brake support. Petzl Reverso Belay Device. There is usually no contact with the karabiner. When belaying with guide mode, the ATC-Guide or Reverso (not a standard ATC) is configured directly onto the anchor.In the event of a fall, the weight is transferred at a 1:1 ratio of force onto … Clip a locking carabiner into the belay anchor point. I own a reverso and it works great for me, but I bet I'd be able to make an ATC Guide work just as well. With the Autotube, on the other hand, the rope is clamped between the belay device and the karabiner. I'm looking at buying a bit more of an advanced belay device, does anyone know of any major differences between these two devices? On the question of handling, we have looked at how the device fits in the hand, how easy or intuitive it is to use and how prone it is to handling errors. Martin Lütkemeyer is a member of the Amazon Services LLC Affiliate Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to enable Web sites to earn advertising revenue through advertising and linking to Amazon.com. The operation of the Reverso 4* from the manufacturer Petzl convinces as a dynamic belay device. However, the rope diameter should be between 8.1 and 11 millimeters. With a weight of around 80g, the tube is suitable for all types of rope, whether single rope, twin rope or half rope. Petzl Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond ATC Guide Curious if anyone has used both belay devices and if they liked one over the other. The BD ATC-Guide is my go-to device. Additionally, it comes in purple, which is definitely exciting. Petzl has improved on the design of the Reverso, but the BD ATC-Guide is still a better device. A decisive factor here is the safety buffer that is still available in the event of faulty belay behavior. At first glance our testers thought they would prefer the Reverso because it's lighter and the shiny anodized finish looks cooler. If the braking hand is in the correct position, the Autotuber will automatically lock. The operation of the ATC Guide from the manufacturer Black Diamond is simple and even very intuitive. It can be used to belay a climber and to rappel, and in Reverso mode can be used to belay one or two second climbers. By using our Services or clicking I agree, you agree to our use of cookies. How easy can this feature be implemented for beginners? The Petzl Reverso is a tubular-style belay device that can be used in “guide mode” to belay a second from above. As if that were not enough, it is also important that the rope is held in the correct position. Belaying with the REVERSO The REVERSO is a belay/rappel device that uses a standardized series of movements associated with most tube-type belay devices. The passage of the rope is therefore stopped abruptly. not really the most important feature, but if i lose my reverso 3 i will replace it with the guide. For this reason, semi-automatic systems offer a large safety reserve, while autotubes only provide small safety reserves. Just figured I'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before I decided which one to get. They seem to do the same thing and have the same features. Petzl's logic was the growing popularity of using a "master biner" on the anchor. This video therefore shows a belay technique common to all Petzl devices of this kind (VERSO, REVERSO and UNIREVERSO). Secure yourself into the locking carabiner with a … Weighing only 65 grams, it's lighter than Black Diamond's 88-gram ATC Guide but slightly heavier than the 59-gram Petzl Reverso. 1 color available. Before we go into the details here is the summary: Overall, the ATC Guide* is better suited for thicker ropes and beginners than the Reverso 4*. The Black Diamond ATC and ATC-XP are very similar in design and function and are both incredibly easy to use. Some have the auto-brake hook mounted horizontally while others are mounted vertically. BD ATC Guide vs Petzl Reverso. It worked fine with my 9.3 mm rope, but was nearly unusable in the gym with their fat, fuzzy top ropes. Get whichever fits with your anchor style. Press enter for more information.